I was sitting on the dock of the bay, watching the tide roll away. That’s when Glenn and Maya came coasting up on their bikes. They’re the couple I first met in Arizona, and connected with again in Lafayette, who are also going coast-to-coast.
We boarded the ferry at 12:30, making our way over yonder to Fort Morgan. After landing on the shore, it was another twenty miles to civilization, the four of us, Jo included, cruising the shoulder together.
It might have been 75 degrees, the sun shining, a nice breeze coming off of the gulf. There couldn’t have been a better day to ride a bicycle; that topic coming up several times between us. We eventually found a narrow path that led us the last five miles into Gulf Shores. That’s where we split up, the two of them making their way to lunch and then through the state park. I veered right and headed a mile to the waterfront.
It’s here that I find myself on the western side of the Redneck Riviera which extends into Florida’s, Emerald Coast. The beaches are dotted with high rise resorts, the highway speckled with beach bars and everywhere you look there’s another southern seafood shack.
I was invited to stay with the Weiss family at the Caribe Resort in Orange Beach. Greg and Patrick, brothers, are friends with my buddy, John, who’s from Bend. Jo and I made our way to their vacation home, a rental that looks like a house featured on MTV Cribs. Joining the family on their sixth floor deck, we have a perfect view of the Bayou St John, which is where we watched the sunset. A pot of Gumbo sat simmering on the stovetop and before long we all gathered around the table, not speaking, only eating.
The guys had a hankerin for some live music so we headed out to see a regional favorite, singer-songwriter, Grayson Capps. Katie, a friend of Greg’s, picked us up and drove us down a piece of road. Sho nuff’, the entire county was there at Harpoons, something spiked in their styrofoam cups, a few looking as drunk as Cooter Brown.
When the music ended we thought it would be a good idea to head down to the beach, gathering with a few others, making some acoustic music under the moon, on the white sand.